Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Issel River on the left - farmstead in the distance.






Hi all - here's the second post for Monday.  As a reminder, March 24, 1945 was the day Operation Varsity (the Rhine crossing) was launched.  This was a massive airborne operation by the combined American and British airborne units.  So yesterday, The Vet returned to the spot where - seated in his jeep within a Waco CG4A glider - he was cut loose from the C47 tow plane for what he's loosely summarized as 'anything but gliding' to a spot in 'Landing Zone 'S' (LZ-S).  After grouping with accompanying members of the host 101st ADBF Association and lots of discussion and orientation exercises with much gesturing, the party began to zero in on specific areas and/or landmarks that perhaps John J would recognize as an "it was here" spot.  We started at the intersection of the Issel River and Issel Canal (the canal is still there, but now exists as an underground waterway).  Verdict: "Nope - further that way - try the next bridge.  I think I picked up that Mauser rifle in a foxhole over there, but we landed further that way."
So one more bridge  downstream- a farmstead and the remains of an old bridge (the current road having been relocated another 1/4 mile downstream).  Same verdict: "No - not quite - let's try the next bridge".   The terrain has been changed to accommodate the re-routing of a road - a new bridge across the Issel - but a familiar patch of woods remains, and the aerial photos from 1945 after the operation helped to get the bearings.  This was the spot.  "We landed around here - stopped somewhere over there." ..

The search party. Only 1 of us knew what we were looking for.
There were more memories related, some stories, and a few moments.   A fair amount of time was spend recollecting and discussing what else was happening in the immediate area.  As you can see, LZ-S is still a field, so some - but not a lot - has changed.  It was peaceful and a beautiful day to visit.  John J commented that the welcome was much nicer this time.  We went to the next bridge just to take a look and make sure.  "Nope - the river was straight where we landed."  So, The Vet was satisfied that he had found the area where they landed on March 24th, 1945.   Quite a day indeed.
Monday started with a trip to Duisburg, with John J retracing his footsteps and more.  This is the city where John J enjoyed driving his jeep - sometimes coasting quietly up to unsuspecting young ladies and honking the horn - WONK WONK - just to say 'hello' I guess.  Visited the Duisburger Hof Hotel, the Opera House, and around the area including Koenig-Heinrich Platz - (King 'Henry' Place) which is still there, but now a modern 'city center' type area with shopping and offices.   At the hotel, The Vet explained to the concierge that he was returning after 67 years, had stayed in the hotel, and noted the location where American flag had flown at half-mast at the time due to the death of President Roosevelt.   An interesting coincidence is that we noticed a Rotary meeting in progress at the hotel.  A chapter representative who was advised came out to visit with John J (a Rotarian), and he then exchanged greetings with their group.  Walking the area - especially Koenig-Heinrich Platz - was 'interesting' because The Vet was surrounded by 'his bodyguards', including the Czech boys, who were in US WWII uniforms - they looked like  soldiers.  We noticed a lot of eyes following us.  Next stop - Landing Zone S near Wesel...

Sunday, March 25, 2012

 Still Sunday. What a magnificent day.  The Walk is now over - a wonderful turnout, weather was perfect. The day started with a ceremony which can honestly be described as stirring

John J - The Vet - was there in uniform along withe the formation from the 101 ADBF.  Dignitaries from the area were in attendance.  Monuments were unveiled - tributes made in French and English.
Memorial in Houmont to the 17th Airborne.

After the ceremony, many, many people sought out The Vet to shake hands, say thanks - sometimes at great length - and get a picture or autograph. Or both.  Or several.
On Dead Man's Ridge outside of Millomont
    It should also be said that there were folks here from all over the area - so many places I don't want to leave anyone out - but here is a sampling:  Czech Republic, Holland, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Netherlands, France, Germany and the UK.  It must be conveyed that the Belgians and others certainly have not forgotten what happened here 67 years ago.

The Vet brings it home  with the 101st ADBF company at the end of the day
Hope these few pics will help convey some of the flavor of the day's events.  It was nearly an indescribable experience.  More later - what a day.
It's Sunday morning - today is The Walk.  All the troops are already up and moving - preparing for a good turnout, and it looks as though the weather will be perfect.  I can see the silhouette of the Houmont church steeple in the near distance - the sun is coming up behind...will try to get a quick pic and post later.  Wish all the walkers luck today - the walk terrain is good but lots of up/down.  More later...js

Saturday, March 24, 2012

Saturday afternoon.  The ceremony this a.m. in Flamierge was another special moment.  The Association troops were in formation, with John J the Vet inspecting.   A nice ceremony where the members of the 17th were remembered for their service in the liberty restored.  Later, a friendship toast at a school in Bertogne.  Each stop is filled with "photo ops".    Lunch in Bastogne was followed by a surprise in the "Peace Woods" - with a plaque to commemorate John J's return to Bastogne.  There is still much gratitude evidenced by the residents, as well as respect shown by many others.  It's heart-warming.  More later...
Commemorative Window in Houmont
A view of Dead Man's Ridge
Hello all.  It is Saturday morning. We've seen much, but internet access has been little, so bear with us.  Thursday after some rest we did some initial touring of the area - villages/hamlets in the area of Houmont.   The countryside if beautiful - spring is on the way here too - and it is very hard to imagine tanks, mortar fire and a World War being fought here. But some evidence remains, and the people remember and continue to honor.  John J has visited several areas that the 17th liberated, and he has been welcomed warmly.  We spent some time on the Dead Man's Ridge yesterday - overlooking the area, and learning of what 
happened - where and when.  The Ridge is now adorned with...windmills. We visited the pinnacle (?) of the ridge, with Flamierge - the objective of the entire 17th division - close by, and Bastongne was visible in the distance and we spend the afternoon there.  John J has been shown much respect and gratitude, and the French language is flying fast and furious(ly).  To a service in Flamierge this morning and also back to Bastogne.  Some surprises on the schedule...
Hello all.  It is Saturday morning. We've seen much, but internet access has been little, so bear with us.  Thursday after some rest we did some initial touring of the area - villages/hamlets in the area of Houmont.   The countryside is beautiful - spring is on the way here too - and it is very hard to imagine tanks, mortar fire and a World War being fought here. But the evidence remains, and people remember and continue to honor . John J. has visited several areas where the 17th fought, and has been welcomed warmly.  We spent some time on the Dead Man's Ridge yesterday - overlooking the area, and learning of what happened where and when.  The Ridge is now adorned with...windmills, based on its height.  We visited the pinnacle (?) of the ridge, with Flamierge - the objective of the entire 17th division - close by, and Bastogne was visible in the distance and we spend the afternoon there.  John J. has been shown much respect and gratitude, and the French is flying fast and furious(ly).  To a service in Flamierge this morning, then more battlefield area touring - and also back to Bastogne.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

1st Post - Welcome...

Hello friends.  You've found our on-line chronicle of John J. Schumacher's return to the battlefields of WWII where, as a younger man, he served in the US Army 17th Airborne Division during the Battle of the Bulge in the Belgian Ardennes, and other locations we will visit during this trip.

Please join us here to experience a bit of this journey - beginning Thursday March 22nd when we arrive in Belgium.  We'll try to post regularly to provide a sense of daily happenings, events, the people involved and try to share a bit of the experience with you.

The trip is made possible through the generosity, dedication and hard work of many, including the sponsorship of the 101st Airborne Division Belgian Friendly Association.  Additional information on the "Dead Man's Ridge Walk" can be found at the Association's blog:
http://17thairbornewalk.blogspot.com
which has information on the event, as well as some historical background and even some information on John J...my Dad.

Stay tuned for what we know will be a special, once-in-a-lifetime trip...

Jeff